RV CONNECTED BATTERY WRONG BLEW THE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY MANUAL
Check the manual for the Sun Saver controller-it should already contain the equivalent of a blocking diode. The solar charger should be able to connect to the battery bus/system (through the appropriate fuse) without any concerns (you should have no issues with other charging sources properly connected to the battery). The issue of measuring the output of the 45 amp battery charger with a meter while disconnected from the battery is that many chargers will give a rectified sine wave output which you will see as an "unregulated" voltage with lots of AC voltage too (what you will read exactly depends on both the type of charger and the type of meter used to read the voltage-DVMs and Analog meters will read differently). I don't believe that there is anything wrong with the battery converter (as best as I can tell from reading your post-of course, it could easily be bad).
The 45 amp battery charger will need both heavy gauge wire and, at least, a 55-60 amp in-line fuse for protection. So, if there are any loads (or current sources) that try to take from (or input into) the battery that exceed 10 amps, you will pop the fuse. It sounds like instead, that you have a 10 amp fuse connected to the battery and some major loads/current sources (solar charger, 45 amp charger, etc.) connected to the "down stream side" of the fuse. So, you should have one common bus bar connection with fuses and their respective wires going off of them. If you attach the sun saver to your battery with, say, an 18 gauge wire, you would connect the fuse between the 18 gauge wire and the bus bar. Any shorts (or current sources) in the 14 gauge wire that exceed the fuse rating will be prevented by blowing the fuse. You connect a 14 gauge copper wire to the positive post (or bus bar) through a 15-20 amp fuse. Fuses protect "down stream" small gauge wire (and equipment like solar arrays, chargers, appliances) from getting dangerous amounts of current in the case of a short circuit.Īssume that the battery has almost unlimited current. Re: component isolation for 12V RV system Anyone else been down this road? Many thanks for providing this forum. Also, It is my understanding that I could use the standard alternator output to partially charge the deep cycle through an isolator when driving, correct? Another issue is getting an inexpensive but capable deep cycle charge controller to recharge when connected to AC or running the generator. I see that 10 amp blocking diodes are common in PV systems, would one of these prevent the 10 amp PV input fuse from blowing when switching to converter? AFAIK, I have isolated the deep cycle battery from the old (and non-working) charging system, with the exception of the electric starter cabling to the AC generator. So I did some checking and polarity was correct, + to + etc., but at the time, my power supply was ~1.5DC volts higher than the battery voltage, and I also read ~4 volts AC in the DC output, so I'm assuming this would qualify as "unregulated". Everything seemed okay feeding a 12V incandescent fixture from the PV system, then I threw the breaker on for the old 45A 12VDC converter and my 10 amp fuse failed immediately. I'm using a Sunsaver 10 (LVD) to charge an existing small deep-cycle battery with a 75 watt panel, and I'm feeding the battery power from the LVD (low voltage disconnect) terminals into my 12V disribution buss via a 10 amp fuse. Greetings, I've been setting up solar power for a small van RV, and I'm adapting the old power distribution center to handle multiple power inputs.
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